Archive for January, 2009
Nothing over 400$, is the kindle good?
the Kindle is great, got one for Christmas, I absolutely love it!
i bought a R4 ds revolution pack. i checked the picture before buying and it had everything. on the back of the package it says:
The box includes:
R4, Micro SD card reader, CD (electronic user manual)
everything can as said on the box apart form the R4 slot 1 card
i bought this on amazon
now what should i do?
report to amazon as it a trusted company. it doesn't really occur a lot.
i was thinking of investing some money in a digital reader (amazon kindle, the sony reader,etc.) so that i would have a more portable option for my reading. However, i live in the cayman islands would i still have access to books via download?
The Kindle uses the Sprint cell phone network, so it is very unlikely. I don't know about the Sony, but both can probably be loaded through USB, but you're on your own in finding the books.
Nope. The Kindle supports ONLY Kindle-format ebooks sold by Amazon.com, no PDFs or any other format. It's been getting mixed reviews, mostly negative. I'm a hard-core bibliophile and a regular Amazon.com shopper, but I am not not NOT going to be getting a Kindle. It's not worth it.
I love going to Barnes and Noble to buy books, CDs and magazines. In the next 5 years will they still be in business or go away like music stores did? Will electronic book readers catch on? Or will people still like reading paperbacks and going to the book store?
I hope book stores will be around for a long time.
Sony now has an electronic reader where you can download up to 150 book titles and read throuhg this electronic divice. The sony reader only has 2 hours of battery life. How could you take something like that camping or on an airplane?
I hate e-books. A book is something where you turn the page. Not an electronic device.
Music Stores haven’t disappeared. There are plenty here in MN, true music stores. Maybe it’s just where u are.
No, I don’t think book stores will ever go away. There are somethings that technology just can’t replace and that’s good old paperback. Book stores have so much variety, it would take a while for all of that to be transferred totally to technology. I love Barnes and Noble (actually js passedd one in the mall..lol) I love reading books and their r millions like us who wouldn’t dare be lazy enough to listen to a computer read a book for/to us!
Hey guys,
I have got a question. I have a computer, for which I just purchased a new SATA 160 gb hard drive. Now I have 2 hard drive sticking right next to each to each other, since I don't have any other space to put the new hard drive in. Anyways, it is a Western Digital WD1600JS model.
I bought the drive to save it as a backup, so that in case my other master hard drive goes out, I will have the backup of my things.
Anyways, let me get to my point. Ok, I switched on the PC went to Everest and it showed that the new SATA HD is about 68C. I was blown away by that reading, I felt the drive and it was a little warm. I downloaded another temperature reader and it stated the same. I took the drive back and I got another one of the same model. Switched it on and the same, it is getting to 68C although the book says that normal operations are at aroun 55C. I called in for their customer support and they said to do a drive analysis, I did it and it took almost 3 hours, and the analysis showed no problems.
I opened the side of the PC and put my room fan towards it and it cooled the drive back to 40C.
Now my old regular IDE drive is at 40C, while my new SATA drive is at 68C.
So I don't know if you guys could help me out on this, but what I was thinking to do is go and get a hole made on the side panel of the case, buy a new 120mm Fan and let it blow the air in. The Fan that is in the back, I will turn it around so that it would blow the hot air out.
Now my question is that I want to get a professional to make a good looking hole to put the fan on, but I don't know where. Do you have any suggestion about any shops that I could go to and ask them to make the hole.
Other than that, do you guys think that this is OK to have a SATA HD to be at 68C while the other one is at 40C?
Please consider my question about the shop to take it to first and then advice me something on this new HD.
THank you very much!!!
Hi there:
2 comments ,,,, 1/ thank you for providing really great information,
it is very rare to actually get a question that provides all the details.
2/ This is a really good question, and you are not alone, — overheating is so incredibly common that it is surprising that there is not a lot more 'buzz' about it.
My most recent computer that I just threw together has 3 power supplies and 12 fans. There are 2 fans in the bottom front plastic panel, which I took a drill and using a pencil, marked out horizontal and vertical lines about 1/2 inch apart. I then took a 1/8 drill and centered the first holes. Then I stepped up sizes until I had a larger hole pattern - SUCH that , the interior area of each of the holes added equalled the entire size of the two fans. This aspect is important to reduce noise and increase the airflow.
On the interior of the front case was a hole pattern for ONE fan, which was a circular pattern of tiny holes - which does 2 things - it is as noisy as hell, and reduces the airflow to almost nothing.
Another answerer suggested a metal NIBBLER tool that cuts out square bits of metal, one tiny nibble at a time, and I have used these to remove the metal in a circle where the opening of the fan blades travel. A typical nibbler is at any techy outlet like Radio Shack such as:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062765&cp=&origkw=metal+nibbler+tool&kw=metal+nibbler+tool&parentPage=search
It is extremely important to NOT have any projections on the outter rim of the area where the blades travel since this will cause a "beat" percussion each time a blade passes, and make the fan very noisy. If the holes for the 4 screws of the muffin fan are not in the case I either mark them with a pointed scribe, and drill them or, now, I use the yellow-brown high temp hot melt glue, and just glue the fans in– air tight in a few seconds.
I blow air into the case front bottom, and usually out the case top back. I use a foam strip over the front bottom fans between the case and the interior metal to force all air comming in to travel from the OUTSIDE of the case ( not circulating inside the case ).
On my last case, I put in a fan on the motherboard side blowing in as well, since there is a row of bays from the TOP of the front case to the bottom, all filled ( Not everyone has a SCSI Ultra wide card with 15 harddrives, a tape drive, a ZIP drive, a 5 1/4 inch drive, 3 CD/DVD drives, a 3 1/2" floppy drive, 5 Ultra ATA drives,
etc.etc. in a single XP computer ). I needed 3 power supplies.
On the first normal ATX power supply there was a fan on the exhaust, so I added one on the inlet, bottom. The case had a hole on the back for another exhaust fan, so I, again, cut out the entire metal area that the fan blades covered - using a pair of metal cutting shears, typically used by automotive sheet metal repair workers or furnace installers. Wiss or WIESS cutters seem to be okay - you need a good pair to work efficiently… These are at any hardware store. ( there are 3 types - straight, left and right cutters ) They are faster than nibblers, but can leave nasty jagged little slivers that you have to use a large slightly rounded file to remove if the area is exposed on the outside of the case, — inside, I just leave the jagged edges if the case interior is not visible. Typically I do not care what the inside " LOOKS " like - I want 100% reliability - lots of fans, heatsinks, etc. and solid. I have done a couple of 'mods' that are absolutely unique, and these require cooling and mechanical work which is totally ridiculous - I won't mention it here. The outside of my typical case has areas of holes drilled "reasonably" well, - people do not notice, but close inspection shows hand tooling. I don;t care. They "work", well, and for years.
Then, I look at the assembled case with running components.
I use the " finger " test, and put my finger on each chip on every harddrive and card and motherboard component. If the chip, ( sound ship, LAN chips, voltage regulators, frequency controllers,
whatever ) is anything more than warm, such as MANY off-the-shelf cards / harddrives / and motherboards are shipped with, and I would burn my finger if held more than 30 seconds,
then I use heatsink pastes and aluminum heatsinks to cool each chip.
I try to mount the harddrives in the front, bottom in front of the case fan inlets. If a chip is on the motherboard with no heatsink
( typically a north or southbridge ) and running fiercely hot, I sink it. I use heatsinks from other computers, or other electronics from recylers or old power supplies etc., and chop them up to fit with a hacksaw, and file the cut edges smooth. If the motherboard chips ( or card chips ) are sunk, but fiercely hot, I either remove the sink ( unless it is epoxied in place ) ( sometimes they use a gooey double sided scotch tape ) and put in a bigger one, or add a fan or both- typically the same size as the sink - say a 386 or 486 CPU fan, again, recycled.
I put in the heatsinks with heatsink paste on the bottom, and dab hotmelt high temp glue on the corners.
Since I do this a lot, I have laser thermal probes to digitally check the components while they are running, to verify that the heatsinking and fans are working properly. You can usually skip this expense just by holding your finger on the heatsinks.
You can go one step further by getting a night vision scope, and looking at the components to see the heat signatures, which is faster and very accurate.
Sometimes, the PCI and AGP cards make their own power by using monolithic regulators such as 7805's 7808's etc. and these can run ridiculously hot. They are usually just bolted to the PCBs. I lift them up and put in a proper aluminum sink, and sometimes even have to add a tiny 386 type fan to keep them " finger warm ".
Don't forget the tiny IC chips like the frequency controllers - they are so small that you would not think of them as being a problem, but I have run across a few that are deadly hot.
I have had to mark out a cross pattern of holes on the sides of the case and drill exhaust or equalization holes on some cases. again, I use a small drill on the pencil pattern, and them use larger drills to make clean holes.
SO…
Back to your HOT harddrive….
Every component can affect all the other components in the case, and how you mount a harddrive and where, and next to what, makes a big difference. I have sent dozens of harddrives back to the manufacturers under warranty, and have complained to them, repeatedly, that THEY are their own worst enemy, clearly showing in the installation manuals, and on the web, how to install their harddrives in the FRONT, Middle, center, of the computer case, where there is NO ventilation, stacked ONE ON TOP THE OTHER, in the tiniest, most closed-in bays, in the entire computer. The fact that they ship drives, brand new, with chips on them that you can roast a turkey on, is strange - they DO fail, and I have hundreds of failed drives in boxes, all out of warranty. I have taken drives that people have given up on as unreliable, and located the hot chips, heatsunk them, put them in front of case front fans, and used them for years and years - in fact I still am using them. If you take off the heatsinks, the chips will overheat in about 5 minutes, and the drive will fail. PURE HEAT.
I have, in higher end, new, expensive, computers, mounted the harddrives in the 5 /14 inch CD bays at the top front. I get an after market blank front panel with 2 or 3 or 4 fans in it blowing into the case, and mount harddrive cooling kits on the new harddrives. These kits, as someone exlplained above, have either 1 or 2 fans on top with a cover that blows the air over the top, or, a huge aluminum heatsink that fits on the top, sometimes again, with 1 or 2 fans blowing air over the heatsink. Be certain to use heatsink paste, since many kits do not supply it. The irregular shape of the top of the harddrive makes an aluminum heatsink of dubious value in some instances. Lots of air is your best solution.
AND… In the old days, I would mount the harddrives upside down to have the hot Printed Circuit Board (PCB ) on top with the hot chips on top to expell the heat up and AWAY from the harrdive motors and bearings. On some HP, CompaQ, Dell etc, computers the harddrives were mounted sideways, or nose down etc, to cram them in. This is no longer possible, and the EXPLICIT instructions on HOW TO install a harddrive from the manufacturers websites of the past, are now WRONG. ( I have CLEAR instructions from all the manufacturers on how to put them nose down, or on their sides etc. )
You can only install drives flat, upside up. This means that putting heatsinks on the frying chips puts the drive UP HIGHER in the bays, and sometimes means drilling new screw mounting holes, and figuring how to mount them…
I am now scavanging entire 3 1/2 inch bays from old computers,
turning them upside down, and mounting them on the base of the bottom, front of the computers, right in front of the bottom, front, case fans. This situation is ideal, and leaves the original 3 1/4 inch bays for all the junk I want to install. ( ask ANYONE with an XP computer if they have a 5 1/4 black floppy drive !! ! ).
One solution for adding just ONE harddrive, is to make a template with a sheet of paper where the bottom screw holes are ( printed circuit side of drive ) and drill holes in the bottom of the case, front, just beside the front, bottom case, fans. The bottom of the case acts as a heatsink, and there is usually nothing in the way. You usually need a longer IDE/ ATA cable to reach from this
drive to the 3 1/4 inch bay above, where the typical C: drive would
be mounted. Being in front of the case front fans is, of course, great- and- the two harddrives are NOT sitting beside each other, thermally railing each other to heat overload…
You can get used 386 and 486 fans and heatsinks almost free. The heatsinks can be cut to size with any hacksaw. Heatsink paste is available anywhere, and DONT worry about getting the latest and greatest silver CPU paste for PCI and harddrive chips - the old white gunk is fine and cheap. Hotmelt glue is available in any building center.
NOTES. Make certain the aluminum heatsinks do not touch any capacitors or components under or around them !
Use only the dirty brown high temp hot melt glue!
Get creative.
If you have lots of $$ and just want the job done fast, mount the drives in 5 1/4 CD bays with expensive drive coolers and fan plates. (I have seen a huge aluminum harddrive sink kit that cost $150 for one drive… )
If you want to make your ENTIRE comptuer run cooler and longer, and Trouble free, and are "handy", start cutting holes and mounting fans. In ANY computer repair shop are piles of dead motherboards and ATX power supplies… really. Most can be traced back to either overheating ( often plugged power supply fans and heatsinks or CPU plugged fan/heatsinks etc. ) or, by people opening the cases WITH THE POWER 110 Volt cord PLUGGED IN and , mucking around with the motherboard LIVE ( ATX power supplies and motherboards NEVER turn off, unless the power cord is unplugged !!!! ) The power supplies are thrown in the garbage and are an excellect source of heatsinks and … MUFFIN FANS !, and the motherboards are an exellent source of heatsinks and …. small muffin fans on the north and south bridges. You can go to all sorts of shops and get old 386 and 486 heatsinks and fans.
Be aware that if you add a hot harddrive, that extra heat must go somewhere, and just heatsinking or fanning it will add to the heat of all the components ( CPU and power supply ) that are in the exhaust path… You should add extra cooling and airflow to compensate…
As for a " professional " to make a hole, there is one other option. You can make any kind of hole, even rather crude, with either a nibbler and/or shears, and ge an aftermarket fan kit that has a custom plastic grill cover that hides the edges. I have not seen one lately, but they will likely be available if you search the web or local stores. This way, you do not need the expense of heavy, milling machines, and the even more expensive operator! Just mount the fan as per normal, and snap on the plastic grill cover.
(((( Finally, a few comments on the answers above…
Lynden states to just take your computer back - ( give up ? )
not my style…
bk78451 agrees with me that getting professional tradesmen to custom machine your case is prohibitively expensive..
Amy Lynn would like you to take it to the professionals - easy but costly, and you are at their mercy on how LONG they take…
Dennis K agrees with you ( and me ) that some harddrives just run VERY hot - he gives you links to one cooler, and one nibbler.
GOOD STUFF and I agree. As to WHERE to put in new holes, well,,,, you do not give any indication of what case you have, and since I have over 200, I do not assume anything. I have some of the strangest stuff you could imagine, and trying to work with some cases defies all pre-concieved notions and logic. Everything is crammed into strange areas with no room to change anything… You just have to be REALLY inventive. I have had to mount a harddrive in mid air, in the middle of the case, where there were no metal sides or supports at all. It worked well though - there are no " RULES" and if you saw some of the cases I have, you would agree… !
Intereseddude has a really good point in being clever, and looking for a unique place to add cooling ports, : though I have not had much luck in going to machine shops!
ggfire has some good points, but I personally VERY dissagree with the suggestion you use a VACCUUM cleaner… Ouch..
Double ouch… please put in the following in the SEARCH bar to read my answer on how to clean a computer saftely …
_________________________________________________
How do you safely clean dust from inside the computer case?
___________________________________________________
and you will understand why a vaccuum cleaner is DEADLY near a computer…
The idea of taking a computer case or side panel to a machine shop is " INTERESTING" and I have done similar things, getting a skilled tradesman to " LOOK " at the job estimate for $60, and fill out the 6 copy " JOB DESCRIPTION" paperwork for a Union prescribed " WORK ORDER"… Unless you know someone in a machine shop personally as a friend, you would probably be better off spending your money on another solution…
Just putting in a fan the same size with a higher CFM ( cubic Foot per Minute ) is an " OK" idea, and I have replaced the typical cheapo fans with a German made stainless steel ball bearing assembly with a Serial Number stamped on the bearing (( like the ones on your car engine )), and the air flow did increase, along with the AMPERAGE draw on the 12 volt rail. However, you have to consider where the hot air you are blowing is going, and if the added airflow is actually allowed to happen — are the exhaust holes bigger? are the exhaust fans faster? etc. A bigger, more powerful fan can never hurt, but unless you remove the metal baffles that typically cover the fan openings, you WILL vastly increase the noise as well. The added 12 Volt current draw will
increase the heat of the ATX power supply as well, so that has to be factored in… It may work well if you drill extra exhaust vents in some part of the case to allow the hot air to escape without the bottleneck of the existing path thru the power supply. Creativity and ingenuity would be needed…
Purchasing an entire new case and removing and re-mouning everything is possible, but then you may have to go out and buy more fans and parts, and have to buy cooling for the harddrives in any event , and just take longer - I personally would not look forward to having to do it - only you can decide the pros and cons involved. )))
hope this helps !
robin
By Roderick Powers
In 2007 Amazon.Com introduced an legendary book reader called Amazon Kindle Wireless Reading Device. This wireless reading device is a portable e-book reader that you can transfer data from your PC to you e-book reader.
Reading for business or personal use has become almost unlimited as this amazing wireless reader can access almost any book newspaper or magazine right at your finger tips.
The Kindle book reader provides a clean and crisp black and white screen that resembles the appearance and readability of printed paper. This is all possible by the utilizing a new high resolution display called electronic paper.
The screen works using ink just as newspapers and books, but displays the ink particles electronically. Unlike other electronic displays, it uses no backlighting, but reflects light like ordinary paper.
This book reader also help you analyze your e-mail account. You can use its stereo headphones to listen to an audio file that is in MP3 format. The wireless reader is only 10.3 ounces in weight and is compact as well so you can fit it into almost any size bag as you travel.
The book reader is not limited to a the typical hotspots that you would normally have to go to use it. E-book reader comes with its own Whispernet in which you can be anywhere to use it. Kindle reading device provides you with spontaneous reading choices on demand.
As you can see, the Amazon Kindle E-book Reader really is a better alternative to carrying your recent book around with you and can offer a better solution for those individuals that cannot read a normal book for whatever reason. The Amazon wireless reading device has revolutionized the reading experience.
For more information on this new and great reading experience [http://www.ebookreader1.com]PLEASE CLICK HERE and get a jump on the Christmas rush.
Roderick Powers has been a business owner for over 20 years. He reviews and promotes various hot selling Christmas products and promotions.
He offers a easy to use review website that features top 10 fast selling gifts for Christmas 2008
To get a jump on the Christmas rush please visit http://www.tentopchristmas.com
I was recently looking at Amazon.com and saw their new Kindle E-reader. I am thinking about buying one. I would imagine you would have to pay for the books you download but how do you pay for them?
You set up an account with Amazon (if you do not already have one) and when you buy your Kindle, it will automatically be registered to that account. You must set up a 1-click option in order to buy items for your kindle. That simply means that you have a credit card on file and you only have to press one button to place your order.
The books you buy (or get free) from Amazon are mostly in .AZW format, which is Amazon’s proprietary DRM (copy protection) format. When you see a book you want, either on your kindle or at Amazon, you just have to click on the buy-with-1-click button and the book will download to your Kindle, right away if you have the whispernet turned on, or when you do get around to turning it on, from your home screen, just pick “check for new items” and anything you have bought that has not been downloaded to your Kindle will then download.
You can also find loads of free books for the kindle at places like feedbooks.com and gutenbergpress.com. Books should be in .prc or .mobi format. Many free sites have a “kindle” option so you don’t have to figure it out. Feedbooks will even allow you to use whispernet wireless to download directly to the Kindle as will Mobileread.com.
These free books are books that are out of copyright, so they are mostly over 50 years old, but all the classics are there.
Occasionally, publishers will have free e-book promotions so you have to watch out for those. Baen.com, a sci-fi publisher has many free books listed. It’s a marketing experiment where they encourage authors to give away the first book in a series to see if it generates sales.
I’ve found that the Kindle does what it’s supposed to do very well, which is display books. It does other things less well. For instance, I don’t like shopping for books on my Kindle, or using the web in general. It’s just too cumbersome for my taste. I do most of my Amazon shopping from my computer and download my purchases later.
Amazon is not saying when the next version of the Kindle will be released. There’s been some speculation that it would be this year, but Amazon has vehemently denied this. They say sometime next year. Whether the next version will be radically different or better than this version, who can say. My guess is that changes in the hardware will be mostly cosmetic, and that most, if not all firmware and software changes will be available as an update to the present kindles.
So, if you really, really want a kindle, you might as well go for it. It’s well worth the money and you’ll probably enjoy it. If you don’t, you can always send it back!
What I have so far is about 6 books I picked out for him. They're all used (he usually buys used books because he reads them in about a week so it'd be silly to spend 15 dollars on one when he's done with it so quickly. Plus he's very practical. The books are…Two I just thought he may like and two came recommended from someone who has similar tastes and two I found from authors I know he likes. Then I made him a photo cookbook on shutterfly with all our favorite recipes and a bunch of pictures of him and I in it. Then I’m waiting on bookends I bought of an old tall ship (split into two to make each side of the book ends) (We took sailing lessons together that's how this applies). Is that enough? I've thought of getting him some cool electronic thing like one of those electronic book readers but i'm not sure he'd really want it and they're $260 so i want to be sure he'd like it. I feel like i should spend more on him but i don't want to go overboard either. I wish i knew what he was getting me so i could base it off that. A little about him: He's very smart, loves computers, loves to read, loves sailing and history. As I said he's practical so I don't want to get him junk. I love him like crazy so i'd buy him anything in the world, i just want to know he'll love it and be happy with it.
Thanks in advance for your help!
You Rock!
I think what you got him is great. It shows thought fullness and a great amount of effort to pick out the appropriate gifts.
As for the reader, save your money. You need to know what his thought is on the Kindle and the other e-book readers out there. If he appreciate's a good book, there's nothing like the feel of a book to curl up to. The e-readers also require you to pay for a subscription for the downloads so is that something he is willing to pay for.
Owners of the Kindle have some issues with them so there is always something they are not happy about with the reader.
OPTION 1
Onyx Blue Metallic Finish.
•Includes notebook, AC adapter, 4000mAh lithium-ion battery, case
•1.73GHz Intel Pentium dual-core processor T2370
•Mobile Intel GL960 Express chipset
•15.4" diagonal WXGA widescreen TruBrite TFT LCD display with 1280×800 resolution, native 720p signal support
•1024MB PC5300 DDR2 SDRAM
•160GB SATA hard drive
•DVD SuperMulti +/-R double-layer drive, supports 11 formats
•Atheros 802.11b/g wireless LAN
•Mobile Intel Graphics Media Accelerator X3100 with 8MB to 256MB dynamically allocated shared graphics memory
•Built-in stereo speakers
•Modem
•10/100 ethernet
•TouchPad
•5-in-1 bridge media adapter: SD, MS, MS Pro, MMC, xD Picture Card
•Four USB 2.0 ports
•RGB, S-video, headphone outputs
•Microphone input
•RJ-45, RJ-11, IEEE 1394 ports
•ExpressCard slot
•Genuine Windows Vista Home Premium SP1
•MS Works 9
•Adobe Acrobat Reader
•Ulead DVD MovieFactory 5
•Toshiba ConfigFree, Disc Creator
•Measures approximately 14-1/4"W x 10-5/8"H x 1-1/2"D
•UL listed adapter; 1-year Limited Manufacturer's Warranty
•Made in China
OR————————
OPTION 2
Processor: AMD Athlon X2 Mobile Technology TK-57 (1.9GHz)
Memory: 1024MB DDR2 Dual-Channel, expandable to 4GB
Hard Drive: 80GB HD
Optical Drive: 8x Multi-Format Dual Layer DVD+/-RW with DVD-RAM featuring LabelFlash Technology. Write max: 8x DVD+/-R, 6x DVD-RW, 8x DVD+RW, 2x DVD-R DL, 2.4x DVD+R DL, 5x DVD-RAM, 24x CD-R and 16x CD-RW disks. Read max: 8x DVD-R/RW/ROM, 4x DVD+/-R DL, 5x DVD-RAM, 24x CD-R/RW/ROM disks.
Operating System: Windows Vista Home Premium with SP1
LCD Monitor: 15.4" Widescreen Ultrabright WXGA TFT (1280×800)
Media Card Reader: 5-in-1 digital media manager - Secure Digital (SD), Memory Stick (MS), Memory Stick Pro, Multimedia Card (MMC) and XD-Picture Card
Other Differentiator: Synaptics touchpad with vertical scroll and metal touch-sensitive multimedia buttons
Additional Features and Specifications:
•System Bus: 256KBx2
•Cache Memory: L2 HyperTransport technology at up to 1600MHz
•Graphics: ATI Radeon X1270
•Video Memory: Up to 256MB of HyperMemory
•Mouse: Synaptics touchpad with vertical scroll
•Speakers: Stereo speakers, Microphone In, Headphone/Audio Out
•Modem: 56K ITU V.92 fax/modem
•Network Interface: 10/100 Mbps built-in Ethernet
•Ports: (1) Expresscard Type 54 Expansion Slot, (3) USB 2.0, (1) VGA connector, (1) RJ11-modem, (1) RJ45-Ethernet, (1) AC adapter connector, (1) Kensington Lock Slot, (1) Microphone, (1) Headphone/SPDIF Audio Out, (1) HDMI connector v1.2
•Wireless Network Adapter: 802.11g
•Measures approx. 10.39"L x 14.09"W x 1.4"H
•Weighs 6.29 lbs.
•Model #M-1412
•ETL listed
•Made in China
•Comes with a manufacturer's 1-year limited warranty
Accessories Include:
•Lithium-ion battery
•3 PC essential software DVDs (not pre-installed)
•3 Tiger Woods 2007 CDs
•User manual
Pre-Installed Software:
•MS Works 9.0
•MS Money Essentials
•MS Office Home and Student 2007 (60-day complimentary trial period)
•Adobe Reader 8
•CyberLink Power2Go for DVD Burning
•Microsoft Windows Media Player 11
•Napster 3.0 (30-day trial)
•Microsoft Internet Explorer
•Google toolbar and Google desktop search
•AOL (90-day complimentary trial)
•Gateway Connect
•NetZero Internet Access
•Windows Live Messenger for Video Conferencing
•LoJack for Laptops BIOS Hardware Persistence Agent (subscription required to activate)
•Kensington Lock Slot (cable lock sold separately)
•Spare Backup
•GatewayShield Comprehensive Security: Norton Internet Security 2008 (60-day complimentary live updates)
•Gateway BigFix - helps identify and solve problems
•Gateway Games Powered by: WildTangent (pre-installed with 10 demo games and 60 minutes of game play)
User-Installed Software:
•DVD 1: World Book Encyclopedia 2008
•DVD 2: Entertainment - Aquazone Desktop Garden, Hoyle Board Games 2007, Hoyle Puzzle Games 2007, Morpheus Photo Animation Suite, Muppet Babies - Thinking and Sorting, My Scrapbook 2, Serif Creativity Suite (Serif Draw Plus 8, Serif Page Plus X2, Serif Panorama Plus 3, Serif Photo Plus 11, Serif Web Plus 10), Sudoku Crunch and Wizard Chess.
•DVD 3: Productivity and Reference - ACT! 2007, Budget Express 3.0, Cook n with Betty Crocker, EMC Retrospect Express HD, Family Tree Heritage 7, Form Tool Deluxe 6, Quicken Willmaker Plus 2008, Stuffit Deluxe 11, Sunbird Calendar, Thunderbird Email, Turbo FloorPlan Landscape and Deck, Turbo FloorPlan Home Designer and Typing Instructor Deluxe.
•CD 1, 2 and 3 - Tiger Woods 2007
Just depends what you will be using it for.